The February 2010 Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Aparna of My Diverse Kitchen and Deeba of Passionate About Baking. They chose Tiramisu as the challenge for the month. Their challenge recipe is based on recipes from The Washington Post, Cordon Bleu at Home and Baking Obsession.
Well these Daring Bakers do indeed keep me in line. 4 months ago I arrived home from our vacation in Italy. I wanted to share my travel experiences with you. Told you I would in fact. Time crept along, there was a wedding and a cake, visitors, and before you knew it, it was Christmas and then it was 2010. I hadn't kept my promise and for that I felt guilty and also a little sad that time had gotten away from me. After 3 months, could I still share it with you? Would you still care? It felt like old news.
Then a few weeks ago I found out the February Daring Bakers challenge was to be Tiramisu- that molto Italian dolce. And with that I was reminded that sharing that Italian experience was something I could do months later. This challenge brought me back to Italy and to one of the most memorable days of our time there. On a warm, sunny day in Venice we had a 3 hour lunch on a canal side patio at the Ristorante Riviera. The setting certainly helped make this afternoon special, but the good food, specifically the dessert, stood out. Tiramisu is a Venetian specialty, said to have been invented close by. Being a traveler who seeks out regional specialties, I knew that Tiramisu would have to be one many things I would have to sample here and it did not disappoint.
Tiramisu is not a dessert that impresses me. I can't remember the last time I ordered it at a restaurant and its not something I bother to make myself. Usually versions of this dessert are too sweet and over done. This Tiramisu at Ristorante Riviera changed my mind about this famed bit of Italian cuisine. It was restrained, simple and perfectly balanced- a proper Italian dish. Since that perfect Venetian day I've been thinking about Tiramisu- that Tiramisu I should say.
Tiramisu is a simple dessert, usually. It consists of long crispy cookies called Saviordi, or ladyfingers, which are dipped in an espresso syrup and layered with a sweetened mixture of mascarpone, an Italian cream cheese, and whipped cream. The entire top is topped with a generous grating of dark chocolate or cocoa and refigerated. Packaged Savoiardi cookies are cheap and readily available in Italian markets and usually what are used.
For this challenge we were to make the lady fingers AND the cheese. Since I've caught the cheese making bug and have been making ricotta cheese almost weekly, as well as trying my hand at cream cheese and mozzarella, mascarpone was a cinch to make. As easy as warming milk really. The homemade ladyfingers were full of flavour and freshness and managed to keep their texture and shape in the finished dessert better than store bought. This version includes a Zabaglione, which is a sweet wine and egg yolk custard similar to the French, sabayon, that added lovely depth of flavour with the Marsala wine. Added to the mixture was as a basic pastry cream. This recipe is definitely more involved than most versions of Tiramisu, but I think they were worth it because I'm finding my spoon dipping into the dish more than I expected.
I mentioned recently, I cook to recreate a place in time. This challenge brought me back to a day, a place, a moment of pure relaxation. I'm thankful for another successful challenge and a chance to relive such a happy day and meal. As you can see, Italy is back on my mind. Ciao!
TIRAMISU
(Recipe source: Carminantonio's Tiramisu from The Washington Post, July 11 2007 )
This recipe makes 6 servings
Ingredients:
For the zabaglione:
2 large egg yolks
3 tablespoons sugar/50gms
1/4 cup/60ml Marsala wine (or port or coffee)
1/4 teaspoon/ 1.25ml vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
For the vanilla pastry cream:
1/4 cup/55gms sugar
1 tablespoon/8gms all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon/ 2.5ml vanilla extract
1 large egg yolk
3/4 cup/175ml whole milk
For the whipped cream:
1 cup/235ml chilled heavy cream (we used 25%)
1/4 cup/55gms sugar
1/2 teaspoon/ 2.5ml vanilla extract
To assemble the tiramisu:
2 cups/470ml brewed espresso, warmed
1 teaspoon/5ml rum extract (optional)
1/2 cup/110gms sugar
1/3 cup/75gms mascarpone cheese
36 savoiardi/ ladyfinger biscuits (you may use less)
2 tablespoons/30gms unsweetened cocoa powder
Method:
For the zabaglione:
Heat water in a double boiler. If you don’t have a double boiler, place a pot with about an inch of water in it on the stove. Place a heat-proof bowl in the pot making sure the bottom does not touch the water.
In a large mixing bowl (or stainless steel mixing bowl), mix together the egg yolks, sugar, the Marsala (or espresso/ coffee), vanilla extract and lemon zest. Whisk together until the yolks are fully blended and the mixture looks smooth.
Transfer the mixture to the top of a double boiler or place your bowl over the pan/ pot with simmering water. Cook the egg mixture over low heat, stirring constantly, for about 8 minutes or until it resembles thick custard. It may bubble a bit as it reaches that consistency.
Let cool to room temperature and transfer the zabaglione to a bowl. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight, until thoroughly chilled.
For the pastry cream:
Mix together the sugar, flour, lemon zest and vanilla extract in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan. To this add the egg yolk and half the milk. Whisk until smooth.
Now place the saucepan over low heat and cook, stirring constantly to prevent the mixture from curdling.
Add the remaining milk a little at a time, still stirring constantly. After about 12 minutes the mixture will be thick, free of lumps and beginning to bubble. (If you have a few lumps, don’t worry. You can push the cream through a fine-mesh strainer.)
Transfer the pastry cream to a bowl and cool to room temperature. Cover with plastic film and refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight, until thoroughly chilled.
For the whipped cream:
Combine the cream, sugar and vanilla extract in a mixing bowl. Beat with an electric hand mixer or immersion blender until the mixture holds stiff peaks. Set aside.
To assemble the tiramisu:
Have ready a rectangular serving dish (about 8" by 8" should do) or one of your choice.
Mix together the warm espresso, rum extract and sugar in a shallow dish, whisking to mix well. Set aside to cool.
In a large bowl, beat the mascarpone cheese with a spoon to break down the lumps and make it smooth. This will make it easier to fold. Add the prepared and chilled zabaglione and pastry cream, blending until just combined. Gently fold in the whipped cream. Set this cream mixture aside.
Now to start assembling the tiramisu.
Workings quickly, dip 12 of the ladyfingers in the sweetened espresso, about 1 second per side. They should be moist but not soggy. Immediately transfer each ladyfinger to the platter, placing them side by side in a single row. You may break a lady finger into two, if necessary, to ensure the base of your dish is completely covered.
Spoon one-third of the cream mixture on top of the ladyfingers, then use a rubber spatula or spreading knife to cover the top evenly, all the way to the edges.
Repeat to create 2 more layers, using 12 ladyfingers and the cream mixture for each layer. Clean any spilled cream mixture; cover carefully with plastic wrap and refrigerate the tiramisu overnight.
To serve, carefully remove the plastic wrap and sprinkle the tiramisu with cocoa powder using a fine-mesh strainer or decorate as you please. Cut into individual portions and serve.
LADYFINGERS/ SAVOIARDI BISCUITS
(Source: Recipe from Cordon Bleu At Home)
This recipe makes approximately 24 big ladyfingers or 45 small (2 1/2" to 3" long)
ladyfingers.
Ingredients:
3 eggs, separated
6 tablespoons /75gms granulated sugar
3/4 cup/95gms cake flour, sifted (or 3/4 cup all purpose flour + 2 tbsp corn starch)
6 tablespoons /50gms confectioner's sugar,
Method:
Preheat your oven to 350 F (175 C) degrees, then lightly brush 2 baking sheets with oil or softened butter and line with parchment paper.
Beat the egg whites using a hand held electric mixer until stiff peaks form. Gradually add granulate sugar and continue beating until the egg whites become stiff again, glossy and smooth.
In a small bowl, beat the egg yolks lightly with a fork and fold them into the meringue, using a wooden spoon. Sift the flour over this mixture and fold gently until just mixed. It is important to fold very gently and not overdo the folding. Otherwise the batter would deflate and lose volume resulting in ladyfingers which are flat and not spongy.
Fit a pastry bag with a plain tip (or just snip the end off; you could also use a Ziploc bag) and fill with the batter. Pipe the batter into 5" long and 3/4" wide strips leaving about 1" space in between the strips.
Sprinkle half the confectioner's sugar over the ladyfingers and wait for 5 minutes. The sugar will pearl or look wet and glisten. Now sprinkle the remaining sugar. This helps to give the ladyfingers their characteristic crispness.
Hold the parchment paper in place with your thumb and lift one side of the baking sheet and gently tap it on the work surface to remove excess sprinkled sugar.
Bake the ladyfingers for 10 minutes, then rotate the sheets and bake for another 5 minutes or so until the puff up, turn lightly golden brown and are still soft.
Allow them to cool slightly on the sheets for about 5 minutes and then remove the ladyfingers from the baking sheet with a metal spatula while still hot, and cool on a rack.
Store them in an airtight container till required. They should keep for 2 to 3 weeks.