Lemon Tart

Ratatouille- August in a pan

 

Nothing says August to me like Ratatouille. A jumble of vegetables all at their peak in one dish. It's like Canada - a colourful melange of flavours, each ingredient still retaining their own personalities. Not sure if the French would agree, but that's how I like to think of it.

Ratatouille is a traditional vegetable dish of southern France. Using so many colourful vegetables, olive oil, bright tender herbs and garlic, this is a dish that easily conjures up the markets and landscape of that part of the world. My mind about this often dish was opened wide a couple of years ago when I was served it by gentile, Ann-Marie of Chateau Juvenal in Provence . The restored 19th century chateau setting, cicadas chirping in the night and of course the company all helped that Ratatouille taste better. After all a dish should taste better in the land it was born. But I knew there was more to it than that. After that glorious dish I came home with a new appreciation of this often mediocre side dish and a desire to recreate it at home.

At this time of year tables are bursting at the farmers markets with more fruits and vegetables than I can keep up with- everything in season at once. I  load up on these late summer beauties making double batches as often as I can, freezing some for dull November days.

Ratatouille is the ultimate make ahead dish. Its flavour and texture becomes infinitely better after a night's rest in the fridge. I'm fairly opinionated about that fact. And the versatility of Ratatouille is what makes it a great leftover dish. Straight up it's a wonderful side dish completing almost any meal from a roast chicken or grilled salmon, to a bowl of white beans. It can be mixed into pasta with a little olive oil, piled into a pastry case and topped with cheese for an impressive tart or used as an edible dish in which to bake eggs, my personal favourite. There are so many ways to use it, although that's if you have enough leftovers. I sneak spoonfuls straight from the fridge  a couple days later. It's better cold or at room temperature.

I've had my share of Ratatouille made from recipes that call for cooking all vegetables in succession, with a finally simmering. This produces a watery, overcooked, pale comparison of what it should and can be. If you loath Ratatouille, this is probably the version you've been exposed to. The secret to a great ratatouille, other than the obvious one of using great vegetables, is by cooking each vegetable separately and cooking just until tender. No final simmering is necessary, in fact its detrimental. A glaze made from the vegetable juices and a rest in the fridge will do all the marrying of flavours you need.

Fava Beans and "Whee"

 
"I ate his liver with some fava beans and a nice Chianti".

That was about as much as I knew about favas for many years- a famous line from Silence of the Lambs. I'm willing to wager that's as close as most people in this country have come to fava beans.

Now come with me to a little movie called Sound of Music. Remember the sorta cold, older sister, Liesl? The pretty one. The  sweet 16 in love with the soon to be Nazi? Well certainly you remember the dancing around the garden scene. There they are dancing around the garden, young and in love, flirting away, unbeknownst to The Captain. The sky opens up like it does only in the movies, and they quickly become soaked. Away they flit, they flit, they fly away into the perfectly placed gazebo, where they continue their dancing and singing foreplay-the only way to portray lust and sexual tension in a PG movie.  And just when you find yourself feeling you could get up and do those steps as if they were your own, Rolfe plants a big wet one on Liesl. The music stops, there's a climactic pause and its at this moment that  Lisel lets out the famous "Whee...". You must know the "whee..." It's so charming, so perfect, so silly, so WWII. If you are still with me (and I do thank you for your patience) you are wondering, "why the heck is she talking about fava beans and The Sound of Music".  Well, that "whee..." was my reaction when I arrived at my local Farmers Market on Saturday morning and saw a big bowl of bright, green fava beans at one of my favoute vendors. I was "wheeing" all the way around the market (the wholesome, joyful Whee, not the other kind). And it wasn't because of Hannibal Lector and his nice choice of wine pairing.

I get excited about most beautiful, lovingly grown, fresh fruits and vegetables, but some are just closer to my heart than others. Like fava beans. Their season is so small, they are expensive, require a lot of preparation and are in short supply here in Vancouver. And I love them! The only problem is that I can't get nearly enough of them to make me happy. Next year I'm hoping to employ a couple of gardeners to help me get my fix. Just wondering how many batch's of ice cream will get me  fava beans for a couple weeks?

Fava beans, also known as Broad beans for you Brits out there, Fèves to the French and Fave in Italian, are a popular part of  Mediterranean diet and are plentiful in places like Provence and Italy. I try hard not to think of the huge bag of fèves I purchased in Paris 2 years ago. They were so cheap I nearly  cried right there. They are a shelling bean and very tender new ones can actually be eaten raw, although I think that works mostly if you are picking them yourself. Otherwise they are cooked briefly and eaten as is or in salads, purees, and soups. Combined with corn they become Succotash.  

If you've never had a fresh fava bean before please seek a couple handfuls out and give them a try. If you were introduced to them in dry form or are thinking about those grey lima beans in Campbells vegetable soup, think again. Hard. Think more of a nutty pea, yet buttery, full flavoured and tasting of spring, even though for some of us in the world we don't get them in the spring but rather in early summer. 

Fava beans require a lot of trimming compared to other vegetables. Their pods look like really large beans with a tough skin. Once pulled open they have a moist fury interior holding snugly kidney shaped beans. Once shelled these beans must be blanched in order to facilitate peeling. Using your thumbnail you can easily pierce the the outer skin and gently squeeze the inner bean out. You are left with glossy, greenest flat beans. That glorious bright green will entice you. They only need about 5 minutes of cooking after that depending on their size.

A Crustacean Christmas in May

Yup, Christmas came early for us, because yesterday I came home  with these just caught, just cooked Dungeness Crabs from Prince Rupert, BC, courtesy of my beloved brother-in-law. Since I paid $25 for one crab just a couple weeks ago, I'm fairly beside myself, feeling a little bit like I just got away with something. But don't worry this is all very much on the up and up: licenses, responsible crabbing practices and the like.

Like those special sour cherries for a certain cheesecake, my brother-in-law knows how much my heart swells with the gifts of the ocean and how much the gift of food means to me and I feel a lot spoiled right now. Of course he also knows that I'll more than show my appreciation in the future, so its all a very win win deal. (I've just realized that sentence has a certain dirty ring to it. Well, get your claws out of the sand, I meant I'd be cooking something special for him in the near future. Sheesh.)

 

So what do you do with a windfall of perfectly cooked prized crabs? Well you eat them as is of course, dunked in some boiling water to heat them up and dipped in a wonderful lemon butter. When they are this fresh there is no other way. Well except for cold with a freshly made Aoli. Later this week a crab bisque, a crab salad, and a crab pasta dish will likely show up on our dinner tables, but last night this was as good a meal as it gets.

When serving shellfish for dipping, I make lemon butter in the French fashion which elevates those two flavours by concentrating the lemon flavour, reducing the acidity and emulsifying the two to make a creamy smooth sauce. This sauce is made with the same method used to make a Beurre Blanc, where you concentrate a liquid to a syrup and then whisk in cold butter a little at a time, creating a voluptuous emulsification of liquid and fats.

Daring Cooks: Ricotta Gnocchi

This is a the first challenge of a new group I've joined, The Daring Cooks- a Daring Bakers spin off. Check out my Daring Bakers category for a round up of the previous posts. The Daring Cooks focus on cooking, vs desserts  that the Daring Bakers do.

This first challenge is hosted by our lovely founding members Lis of La Mia Cucina and Ivonne of Creme Puffs in Venice and is Zuni Cafe's Ricotta Gnocci.

This is a rather famous dish from the Zuni Cafe in San Francisco. I remember seeing Chef/Owner, Judy Rodgers make her fabulous Zuni Ricotta Gnocchi on Martha Stewart many years ago.  The idea of this gnocchi with no flour intrigued me and while I came across them again over the years in passing and then about a year ago when I finally acquired the fabulous cookery tome, The Zuni Cafe Cookbook (one of my prized cookbooks) I had not made it a priority to try them out. Which is why groups such as this are so important to a cook like me, always looking for something new and spectacular. 

After making these beauties I'm excited to add another recipe to my repertoire. This is a rare thing in fact. With a large cookbook collection, the magazines I subscribe to and the dozens of food blogs I frequent, as well as my own thoughts and ideas, I'm overrun with recipes. The truth is with the number of dishes I cook, only about 5% of them make it to my permanent repertoire - that valuable recipe file in my head of tried and true classics that will never let me down. This is one of them and what an exciting addition it is.

So what about this dish makes the grade? Well, for one, the ease of the dish. Now I say this with reserve, because to be honest this was a tricky dish to get right. The ingredients are few, the technique is sparse, but with a little practice these are indeed one of the easiest, fastest items I've ever made. The other reason this becomes a classic is the taste. They are ricotta cheese, pure and simple. They can be flavoured like I did with lemon zest, but mostly its about the ricotta. The last reason this recipe is so special is its adaptability. The number of ingredients, especially vegetables, it pairs well with are never ending and it is one of those dishes than indeed will elevate that special bunch of fresh picked asparagus or sweet cherry tomatoes and make those vegetables better than they are alone.

Dining Solo : Crab with Grapefuit and Avacado Salad

I've been  single for the last couple weeks as DG is away in Beijing. This is something I haven't had a lot of experience with, lucky for me. I get enough invitations that keep me  eating well, but I don't mind eating alone, probably because I don't have to do it very often. Recently I spent an evening at home and made this spectacular salad. While I did just throw it together with no recipe to speak of, it was so fantastic, satisfying and beautiful that I snapped this shot of it. While the photo might not do it justice, let me tell you this is a winner. Its light with lots of contrasting colours and all the basic elements covered. Creaminess from the avocado, crunch from the frisee, acidity from the grapefruit, saltiness from the crab all brought together by a simple vinaigrette. A glass of rose and a few pieces of good bread with imported butter and this was one satisfying dinner for one. The best thing: I didn't have to share any of this expensive super fresh Dungeness crab. I ate it all!

When eating alone I know how easy it is to grab something standing up in the kitchen, crouched down at the coffee table in front of the TV or bent over the computer keyboard. Heck, even if you aren't eating alone I know that its sometimes easy to do that after a long day. But I think taking the time and care to feed yourself with the hospitality and nurturing that you reserve for guests or spouses, is important. I won't say I do this every night, but most nights I set the table as I would if DG was with me, keyword being "table", not chair, counter,  or floor. I fold a napkin, use nice serving ware and pour a glass of wine before I sit down for dinner. It feels incredibly civilized, calming and enjoyable and in many ways combats those pangs of loneliness one feels when eating alone night after night.

Cream of Cauliflower and Saffron Soup

Spring is definitely here. Not just because the date on the calender says so or that the magazines in the mail box have a picture with peas and fava beans and other such new crop vegetables. Nope, the chill in the air has been replaced by that familiar warmth that while not obvious at first, you relish with the memories of warmer seasons past. The sun seems brighter, warmer and more at home in its environment, all around me crocuses have given way to the first daffodils, and cherry blossoms are finally showering our streets with that blush of spring that seems "so Vancouver" and can't help but form spontaneous smiles on faces throughout the city. I'm almost out of Ruth's garlic (sad am I) and the winter squash in the markets have all but disappeared. Yes, spring is here and how glorious it is.

This buttery looking soup you see above is actually a late winter staple and since I've already shared two soups with winter white vegetables, I thought this would be a great way to say good bye to winter and hello spring.

Kale with Morels and Creamy Polenta

 
DG and I sat down to this for dinner recently and in mid bite I realized what was a complete AP-er* turned out to be an amazing dinner. I pulled my camera out right away because I knew I simply had to share this with you. A seemingly empty fridge ended up inspiring me to cook this fabulous recipe inspired by something I'd come across online and a recipe from the Zuni Cafe cookbook for the best way of cooking kale that I know. I use this technique often to make boring winter greens like kale soft and inviting.

A simple dinner of winter greens and pantry staples like dried morels and polenta provided a nourishing, incredibly tasty dinner on a rainy Vancouver evening. When you walk by the kale in the grocery store this week and think "I never know what do do with this", pick it up because this will transform your view of this under appreciated vegetable. And this might also be your last chance to enjoy it. When that asparagus starts showing up on sale, we all know that kale won't be holding your attention.

Oh, and if you need a little more substance, I highly recommend topping it with a poached or fried egg for an even more perfect meal.

*DG's term for things I cook with limited resources. See if you can figure out what the AP stands for.

Daring Bakers: Lasagne of Emilia-Romagna

 

The March 2009 challenge is hosted by Mary of Beans and Caviar, Melinda of Melbourne Larder and Enza of Io Da Grande. They have chosen Lasagne of Emilia-Romagna from The Splendid Table by Lynne Rossetto Kasper as the challenge.

This is my second month belonging to an adventurous and enthusiastic group of bakers  called The Daring Bakers. After a rather simple first challenge I was thoroughly excited about this month's recipe. It is a very different baking project, in fact it was one many of us wouldn't think of as in the category of "baking".

This group of bakers has a varied repertoire and that is one of the reasons I decided to join. I love to have an excuse to make new things, perhaps recipes I've always wanted to try but never got around to, or just a way to learn about a certain style of baking. While I've never been shy about daunting baking projects, the moral support of fellow Daring Bakers and plenty of people to offer tips and experiences makes it a fun affair. This month's challenge was a lasagne. Not just any lasagne though. A meat based lasagne with homemade spinach pasta. Well this was all new to me. Glad I'd signed up when I did!

 

I'd been feeling the desire to try my hand at handmade pasta for a while now. Until recently I've been  satisfied with my sources of fresh made pasta, but I've been starting to see the advantages of making your own. The chance to be creative with flavourings and fillings is a great way to stay inspired in the kitchen.

Making your own pasta also saves money (pasta is relatively cheap to make) and allows you to enjoy a truly artisanal product. After all the homemade product is a world away from anything you  can buy. And its so easy! A few weeks ago my friend Ruth must have read my mind because she suggested we both tackle some handmade ravioli. Perfect! A great way to get some practice in before the big challenge. After an extremely successful, not to mention delicious, butternut squash sage ravioli I was smitten with making pasta and ready to tackle more.

Sunchoke Soup and the Return of Winter

 
Outside my window I'm looking at an unusually strange view of the city I call home. Snow covered rooftops, white capped trees and chilly looking crocuses. Here in Vancouver, snow is something people tend to recoil from. It instills panic in a city full of cars with perpetual summer tires and bombards us with the idea of winter that we simply don't buy into. People drink their morning coffee on outdoor patios, I wear my summer jacket in February and DG insists on his tiny little nylon running shorts. This winter, however, has shown itself in a traditional Canadian manner with unseasonably cold weather and a month of snow banks and salted streets. Just as the reminder of the white stuff had vanished, as crocuses burst out in colourful song and the tulips and daffodils started to perk up and show themselves, and just 1 day after we had brunch on an outdoor patio, the skies opened up and it snowed! I'm sure I could hear the cries from all over the city. No....!  Me, actually, I like snow. In fact I can't get enough of it. Shhh...don't tell or I'll get voted off!

I take this as a sign that I can still get in another winter vegetable soup. Today's soup recipe is one I developed a couple years ago as a way to use up a rather enthusiastic purchase of sunchokes, or jerusalem artichokes. This is one of my favourite ways of introducing this unique vegetable that unless you shop at farmers markets, you probably will never see. A friend gave me her bounty recently and I went about making a big batch of soup to preserve this vegetable before the spring peas and asparagus arrive.


The Sunchoke, also called Jerusalem Artichoke,  is the tuber or root of a variety of sunflower. When I tell people that they instantly warm to it. It has no relation to artichokes, doesn't taste like them or look like them and isn't a native to Jerusalem.  It is in fact native to North America. Sunchoke seems a more fitting name although then there's the choke part which puzzles. Seems like this is one misunderstood vegetable!

Avocado. Meet carrots.

I like to make an effort to eat as seasonally as possible. Simply put that will mean eating what's grown as closest to me as possible and in the season it was grown. That can be limiting in the winter, but I also find it a valuable challenge.  An appreciation of root vegetables is something that takes some commitment, but can be done. That being said there are times when I simply cannot resist some things  I'll never be able to find a local source of. Citrus fruits, for example, I cannot and will not live without. Avocados are in that list as well. And while they are certainly not local to me, they are not grown too far from me down in California. I gorge on citrus in December to February when they are the seasonal fruit, and treat myself to a couple avocados a month. So, let me tell you a secret, nothing livens up a salad in the winter like an avocado. Its clean creamy texture and gentle unique flavour makes any plate of crisp greens or shaved vegetables all of a sudden something special. The fact that they are the perfect companion to so many other vegetables and fruits  makes them an extremely versatile fruit to have in the house.

I make a lot of grated carrot salads in the winter  as one always has carrots, lemon juice and olive oil. Here is a salad I whipped up the other night with a very few vegetables I had left in my fridge, including a lonely looking avocado. It was delightfully fresh and rich at the same time and I felt good about using the local carrots. 

Grated Carrot and Avocado Salad

6 medium carrots, peeled and grated
1/2 small onion or 1 shallot, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
3 Tbsp minced fresh dill
1/2 lemon, juiced
1/2 tsp Dijon mustard
3 Tbsp olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 tsp zahtar
1 avocado, diced

Stir together the juice, olive oil, mustard and spices. Toss in carrots, dill, garlic and onions. Taste and adjust salt and pepper and acidity. Add more lemon juice or olive oil if necessary. This is a salad to trust your taste buds with. Toss in avocado. Serve. Will keep very well for up to 3 days, although avocado might start to brown.

Some notes on this recipe:

Parsley works equally well as dill.

Zahtar is a middle eastern spice blend that is perfect with carrots. Other spices you could use would be cumin and coriander or chile powder. It can also be left out, but the zahtar really shines here.