Lemon Tart

Seed Saving: Fresh Fruit Syrups

Who knew something as humble and simple as fruit syrups could be the thing to finally get me out of my blogging slump? Sometimes its the simple things that enthuse me the most and a technique like this is one that represents my approach to food and produce specifically : Buy it beautiful, eat it fresh and don't waste any of the good stuff when its plentiful in season. That means pits, scraps and anything remaining of the fruit itself.

I've been making these fresh fruit syrups for years inspired by a raspberry syrup in one of my most formative cookbooks, Alice Waters', Chez Panisse: Fruit. With frequent forays into sorbets, ice creams and fruit purees I often find myself with leftover seeds and pulp heaped in my strainer, my forearm aching from pushing the bright purees through the fine mesh sieve. What is left is not very desirable but still has lots of its fruit flavour. An apartment dweller I cannot brag of my overgrown raspberry bushes of which I am unable to keep up with picking, so the prized berries I get my hands on are treated with the utmost respect.

The technique here is a simple one. Boil fruit scraps in water to extract flavour, strain, add sugar, boil again and store. What you are left with is a beautiful flavourful nectar that can be combined with sparkling or still water for a refreshing drink but beyond that are a multitude of uses:

• Make extra special lemonade by mixing equal parts lemon juice, syrup and water.
• Top with sparkling water for your own fruit spritzers.
• Make Champagne cocktails by topping a splash with sparkling wine.
• As a topping pancakes and waffles. 
• Over vanilla ice cream
• Add to your favourite cocktails, especially good to customize mojitos.
• As a sweetener for iced tea.

Sour Cherry Sidecar

While I may be a self professed Oenophile, I seek a well made cocktail as often as I can. When presented with a drink made to perfection by a professional I see the true art of this craft. There's something sexy and sleek about a dim room, a well laid out bar, glittering bottles of spirits, liqueurs and bitters, shimmering ice cubes and the many shapes and sizes of glasses. The sounds of shaking and stirring and cracking of ice completely bewitches me.

I love a cocktail before dinner, or more often, while making it. Since they are often created based on syrups or juices found in my fridge, many of my creations are often made in waves and then left for dead. Bringing them back to life on my blog means I can share the recipes with my readers AND keep the recipe alive for my own future reference.

Today's drink is a variation of a  Sidecar. A very old cocktail, the Sidecar has been around for nearly a century, a category of drinks I have a soft spot for (the Manhatten and Opera being among my favourites). Some say it was born in Paris for a patron that arrived at the bar in a sidecar of a motorcycle, others say it was created in London at the end of WWI. No matter what the story, drinks that last that long do so with good reason. Just the right mix of sour and sweet makes the Sidecar a study in balance, something I look for most in a cocktail. But what's even better is that the recipe is perhaps the easiest to remember, which is likely why its been showing up around here so often. Equal parts lemon juice, orange liqueur and brandy mean a recipe I can rattle off no matter how hectic the room is. 3 ingredients also means I always have the goods on site.

Cocktail Nuts...with Sugar and Spice and Everything Nice

 

Another Friday, another dish by Dorie, since this is a French Fridays with Dorie selection. And yet another knockout. The recipe is straight forward. You toss a bunch of nuts with barely beaten eggwhite, which will act as glue for seasonings and will make the nuts crisp, then with your sugar, spice and everything nice. A slow 'bout in the oven and you are done. What I love about a recipe like this is how its really more of a technique. Once you've mastered the "idea" you can change the seasoning blends and even nuts and make it your own. I've made a variation of these spice nuts before, and I was skeptical about the amount of sugar being used, but the salt and spices balanced it out completely.

Will I make these again? Absolutely! I had them in the oven in minutes and a total of 45 minutes from start to snacks! I'm not expecting dinner guests until tomorrow night, but honestly these could be made completely on the fly when unexpected visitors show up for a glass of something festive. And on another note, there are egg whites in this recipe! That's a draw for me right there, until I start my egg white business. When you make as much ice cream, sweet pastry and butter cookies as me, there tends to be an out of control supply of eggwhites in the freezer. I'm always looking for a way to use them.

And just in case some of you don't have her book, but are really feeling like some crunchy nuts, I'm leaving you with a recipe today. Not Dorie's, but my own go to cocktail nut recipe. The holidays, ready or not, are here, and this is a recipe you are going to want up your sleeve.  While Dorie's would be great for making in large capacities and giving all month long, my recipe is more suited to eating that day, in fact just warm from the oven even.  They are more savoury than sweet, with a nice dose of herbs and some smokiness from paprika to round it out. Perfect with a dark beer or big Malbec and definatly with a Bourbon based cocktail, like a Manhatten, my fave. And those still left in the dish at the end of the night will be a welcome before breakfast treat.

Daring Bakers: Doughnuts!

The October 2010 Daring Bakers challenge was hosted by Lori of Butter Me Up. Lori chose to challenge DBers to make doughnuts. She used several sources for her recipes including Alton Brown, Nancy Silverton, Kate Neumann and Epicurious. 

Until recently I had it in my head that one should have a deep fryer in order to make deep fried foods. I kept rationalizing why I shouldn't even consider getting one, even when offered to me for free from someone in my family who actually has an "extra" one around. I feared having an appliance that served one purpose, and a kinda fun one at that, would mean I'd be deep drying everything in site and my already not too skinny body type would take a beating from just having it close by. Whatever small appliance company instilled that in my brain I'll never know, because that's just deep fried non sense! Those cannoli sure were a breeze to make in my humble stock pot with the aid of a thermometer and a strainer. And so were these doughnuts. Perhaps this is just as dangerous of a discovery as my fear of owning a deep fat fryer.

Truth be told, deep fried foods aren't something I feel I need more of, but every once in awhile there is a dessert that requires this technique and I do debate whether its worth the unpleasant smell and the vat of boiling oil. Doughnuts are certainly worth any small negatives and I tell you these little pillowly bites got my giddy on!

  I've had Claudia Flemmings excellent dessert book, The Last Course, for years now and it remains just outside of my Desert Island Cookbook list. I'm not sure when exactly I spied these sugar and spice dusted doughnuts but when I learned of Octobers Daring Bakers challenge it  didn't take me long to choose these for the challenge.

While there are indeed cake and yeast doughnuts, I tend to go for the yeasty kind. I think they have more flavour and seem more authentic, although I'm certain you could debate both sides. This dough was a simple egg and butter enriched sweet dough with a hearty dose of Orange Flower Water and tossed in a Cardamom and cinnamon sugar, making them definitely Middle East inspired. Next time having these alongside a rosewater pannacotta would not be a bad idea. The dough was quick and very basic in its technique with an important long overnight rest int he fridge to develop flavour. I loved the idea of cutting them into unconventional squares. While we all love the rings shape or the doughnut hole, the square made for almost no waste and no re rolled dough which always make for a tougher end product. They puff up so much that they still retain a doughnut whole appearance.

A Kir for Bastille Day

 
 

It's true this post should be tomorrow in honour of the return of  Thirsty Thursdays, but today is Bastille Day, so it seemed fitting. July 14, La Fête Nationale, or Bastille Day, is France's big national holiday, which takes place on the anniversary of the storming of the Bastille prison in Paris during the revolution in 1789. Its a pretty big deal and there is usually lots of grand military parades, air shows, music and plenty of celebrations as the whole country takes the day off and parties like its 1789. Surely all of this along with lots of good food and drink.

Those who know me, and if you've been a regular reader, know that I have a particular soft spot for France.  Its people, art, food, way of life, language, even its quirks and idiosyncrasies, all touch me where I live. I been so lucky to have spent quite a bit of time there as a curious tourist, spent some time with locals, DG has worked there, and we've come to adore the country. So much so that the last time I entered the country, after a magical 3 weeks in Italy, I got a lump in my throat and a tear in my eye, simply from the overwhelming feeling of coming home. This is a place that I would call home, fairly easily if the chance ever presented itself. 

In honour of Bastille Day, I'm sharing with you a classic before dinner drink. A Kir is a simple melange of wine and Cassis and a common aperitif. Its old school and while some people might think it old fashioned, I happen to love it and order it frequently both at home and abroad. While most commonly made with white wine, although a version made with red wine is called a Kir Cardinale, Kirs come in many shapes and sizes. Some are made with Peach liqueur, called a Kir Peche, or with Raspberry liqueur, called a Kir Framboise, and then there's the Kir Violette, a sexy number made with a brilliantly purple violet liqueur from the Loire Valley. When in a festive mood I would suggest a Kir Royale, using Champagne in place of the white wine, or its equal cousin, the Kir Alsace made with the lovely sparkling wine of Alsace, called Cremant.

 

The Kir originated in the area of Dijon, in Burgundy, on the Eastern side of the country. This town is known for its Dijon mustard, of which not a jar is made anymore - sadly a victim of large scale food production- and Cassis, the blackcurrant liqueur not to be confused with the light and fruity  wine made of Cassis in the Riviera. Its named after Dijon's wartime Mayor, Felix Kir, who popularized it by serving it frequently to visiting delegates in the period following WWII. Traditionally it would have also been made with the local fruity white wine, Aligote. 

I had my very first Kir in Dijon some 5 years ago on our first trip to France. It seemed appropriate. And of course I left that city with not only the requisite Dijon mustard, but a bottle of Cassis as well, and returned home making it until every drop of that tasty, inky, sweet liqueur was gone. 

  
I love this drink for its simplicity as the perfect pre dinner drink. I always have Cassis in my liquor cabinet and inexpensive white wine around. Its lighter than a cocktail, but a little more special than a simple glass of wine. While I have frequently made it mixed with some of my homemade Framboise, the classic version is what I make the most and in winter a Kir Cardinal is the perfect way to cover up a bottle of disappointing red wine I've opened on a previous night. In fact I dare say the making of a Kir in this house often follows a  bottle of wine we simply cant be bothered to drink by itself again. A cloak of rich Cassis nicely covers up a bland wine.

I'll be likely having one of these tonight. Sante to all of the lovely French people I've met over the years and a country that feels a lot like home.

Beat the Heat: Cherry Lemonade

Summer is in full swing these days and while some people are enjoying the beach or a far away vacation, you are most likely to find me  in the kitchen surrounded by jam jars, vodka, trays of frozen berries, and bubbling pots of fragrant jam, preserving something for the winter months. That's what I've been up to lately, madly scrambling to get it all done before the peaches and tomatoes turn up. But in between homemade jam, liqueurs and frozen fruit I'll retire to my peaceful, lush patio for a glass of something refreshing. I always like to incorporate whatever fruits we are enjoying at the moment into a  beverage, so with a fridge full of cherries I added them to a basic lemonade preparation. At first it turns  a beautiful pink blush and then deepens into an "all about the cherry" concoction. If your idea of lemonade includes opening a can of concentrate or stirring sugar crystals coloured yellow, you'll be surprised at the big flavour this drink offers. And other than getting someone else to do the grunt work (DG) of squeezing the lemons and pitting the cherries, this drink takes minutes to prepare. And best of all are the edible cherry garnishes that make it snack too. Stay cool and happy summer!

Thirsty Thursdays: Strawberry Verbena Cordial

I don't want you to think that the only beverages I make are the alcoholic variety, but it seems that recently drinks with a little somethin' somethin' in them is what I'm drawn to. I favour drinks with lots of fruit flavours and what better time to enjoy these than in the middle of the growing season. Today I was planning on sharing a very classic, very summery drink, completely void of the strong stuff. But then I spied what is likely the last of strawberries in my fridge and realized I hadn't made what has been part of my preserving line up for years- strawberry cordial. Almost in a panic I raced to my overstuffed liquor cabinet- its for the desserts I make I swear!- and was relieved to find just the right amount of vodka in there. So I got to work. For about 5 minutes. Yup, that's how long it takes to make this stuff. Well maybe 10 depending on how fast your hulling skills are.

For those of you out there who think preserving it something your Gramma did, or something your crazy foodie friends do, think again. This is preserving. It requires no cooking, no measuring and pretty much no skill. The only requirements are a couple pints of good strawberries, a mason jar, some vodka and a few minutes.

My version adds a sprig of lemon verbena, la verveine as the French call it, one of my favourite herbs. It adds a bit of almost grassy lemon flavour to the drink and goes lovely with strawberries. While you can absolutely leave this out, if you have a plant in your garden or know someone who does I encourage the addition. Otherwise basil also would be lovely.

Now I realize the only thing wrong with sharing this recipe with you today is that you won't actually be able to enjoy it for a few months. Which doesn't help your "thirst". And for that I'm sorry  I didn't document this last year to offer the finished product with you today. But I wanted to share with you the joy of making something yourself that  rewards your patience. In a few months, when all berries except cranberries are but a whisper of a memory, you'll be able to enjoy a tiny glass of highly flavoured strawberry cordial that will take you back to warm summer nights and bushels of summer fruit.

Thirsty Thursdays: Rhubarb Mojitos

 

Well, its Thursday, and that means time to start thinking about something new to drink for the weekend. The beginning of lazy patio summer evenings are the perfect occasion for a bright, minty Mojito

Mojito: a popular Cuban drink, bastardized for the most part, in every casual eatery from East to West, often made of artificial lime juice and barely a sprig of mint to be found. Properly made they are the perfect hot weather cocktail. Sprigs of fresh mint are muddled with sugar and fresh lime juice, mixed with good white rum, topped with ice and soda. Simple, fresh, thirst quenching.

This one is a little different. While I respect the classic and have made my share including a weekend with family that I  became an expert overnight due to the sheer number I made. I believe we exhausted the rather limited mint supply in Red Deer Alberta that year. Since I like to flavour my drinks with a little somethin-somethin I recently got inspired by a rhubarb version. Using a rhubarb infused syrup as the sweet base gives a lovely zip and a beautiful pink colour.

The secret to a great Mojito is the mint. If you can grow it yourself all the better because herbs are always better freshly picked. All you need is a small bit of garden space with some sun and a little water here and there and it will soon keep you in Mojitos and beyond for as long as you'd like. Or, do what I do and grow them in pots where they are easy to grow and kept under control. And surely you must know someone with too much rhubarb on their hands!

Thirsty Thursday: Icy Hot Chocolate

After a little thought, I've decided Thirsty Thursdays will be every other Thursday. I doubt I'll run out of drink ideas for you, but this ensures a steady supply. So stay thirsty!

For this weeks beverage, I've chosen something as much dessert as it is drink. The other night with friends over for dinner I, surprisingly, had no dessert around. My poor ice cream maker is a little under the weather, so that's why the lack of ice cream treats. If anyone knows where I can get a Krups ice cream maker please let me know in the comments. With the recent summer-like heat here, the thought of cake or similar didn't seem to appeal. In the winter a quick dessert in our house is often Hot Chocolate. Its fast, satisfying and comforting. So as with almost any beverage, why not enjoy it cold. The name doesn't seem to really do it justice. More like Chocolate Milk, but richer since there is no chocolate syrup just real chocolate, the reference to that wintertime drink we all enjoy seems to describe it perfectly. A splash of Creme de Menthe makes it ice ice, baby!

Keep a pitcher of these around this summer. You'll be surprised how refreshing these are.

Thirsty Thursdays: Honey Cream Soda

With the those lazy crazy days of summer not too far away each Thursday I'll be sharing a new drink recipe with you- cold, herbal, cocktail, mocktail, liqueur... to name a few.

 

One of my early food memories was The Pop Shoppe. This 80's birthday party institution was a dream for a  kid- a warehouse full of endless varieties of sugary carbonated beverages in all their artificial coloured glory! Your Dad grabbed the shiny red plastic crate and you picked as many as would fit, trying to decide between the shiny coloured lime, cream sodas and grape, over the always popular root beet and cola. When you had crashed from the sugar high that certainly must have followed, you returned the case of empty bottles to The Poppe Shoppe, and the cycle would continue. Hello, recycling genius! Why don't places like this make a come back? I'm not sure if there is indeed still Pop Shoppes around  but those were good times.

Nowadays I have rare pop* cravings but when I need a bit of sparkling sugar I go straight to Boylans who's Red Birch Beer I have a thing for. The thing about such drinks is that they are simply sugar, flavouring and carbonated water. All very readily available and inexpensive ingredients. With most high quality sodas costing almost $2 a drink, I cringe at the mark up, and I also see an opportunity to make it myself.

Cream soda and me go way back. I grew up with a penchant for the garish red cream soda of my youth- my Slurpee of choice as well as  a mean ice cream float. But sometime in my adolescence Vanilla Cream Soda came about and I started to take to those Vanilla Cream Sodas, that is until a string of bad experiences.  Each time I had a particular brand I would end up feeling queasy and then, well perhaps you can guess...( I don't really think a food blog is the place for the that "V" word)  After a few occasions of such incident, each with my very observant best friend, she started cutting me off, even though I still desired said beverage and at the time didn't seem to care about the after effects. But she always did look out for me and she kept me in check and off of Vanilla Cream Soda for a few years. Not sure what was in that drink but something tells me it wasn't the vanilla. Eventually I did get back onto the vanilla wagon, but never went back to that brand and am happy to report there have been no more incidences.